The Pantheon in Changing Light CW#10

Morning – The piazza out front is nearly empty this early in the morning. A small group of tourists wait expectantly in front of the big black doors. First the left one begins to move, then the right one opens. These tourists don’t rush in like those during the other times of the day. They’re in no big hurry. They just want to enjoy the empty space. There are 10 people here with me and 2 of them are janitors, sweeping up after last night. Whenever anyone speaks their voices echo so loud it sounds like someone is giving a sermon. The low murmur heard at other times of the day is nonexistent. Everyone’s sounds are distinct. There is only natural light in the mornings, but it’s early and there’s heavy cloud cover, which darkens the room. A small break in the clouds and instantly the room is bathed in light. A woman standing next to me gazes down at my writing. I don’t mind. The Pantheon in the morning is slow. I empathize because I went through a similar struggle to get here this morning. But the atmosphere is more personal and intimate. Even though people are spread out, we’re all here for the same reason: To avoid the mad herds of midday tourists and just enjoy some ancient Roman architecture.

Afternoon – The bright sun shining through the oculus puts a spotlight on the niche just above the huge doorway. With no artificial lighting, the circular room dims under passing clouds. Like most places in Rome at this time, the Pantheon is crawling with tourists, their cameras ready to capture any picture. A low murmur hums throughout the building, an array of random languages echoing in my ears. Listen harder and hear footsteps against the marble floor. People are constantly flowing into the building; it’s like swimming upstream trying to get out. Weary people rest against giant columns, their legs sprawling. Everyone is so hurried in the middle of the day. It seems like they just want their photo opportunity and then to get out of there as soon as possible. No one takes the time to slow down and enjoy what the Pantheon has to offer.

Evening – Only a trickling stream of tourists come into and out of the Pantheon. By this time in the day, there’s not enough natural light to keep the place lit, so artificial ones are placed throughout the room, casting long shadows. The whole room is darker than it had been during the day. Everything has an odd orange glow. The lighting makes the dome seem smaller but at the same time, the illusion of floating seems more believable. The darkness makes it feel more like the Catholic churches we have been visiting. There’s a lot more space to move around now without pushing other people out of the way to get a good view at anything. There are no tourist groups here this late, just random locals and couples. The occasional camera will flash, lighting the entire room. The lighting is very specific, focused on certain paintings and sculptures. A lady tells us all to get out by intercom and come back in the morning. I exit and before I can turn my head back for one last glance inside, they’re already closed. It feels rude and brusque to be kicked out like that, after spending the entire day here. But I understand, another long day in Rome has tired me out as well.